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 Sachse electronic ignition

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Nick

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PostSubject: Sachse electronic ignition   Wed Sep 01, 2010 9:57 pm

Hi my original ignition boxes failed so I fitted a Sachse unit.
http://www.elektronik-sachse.de/index_en.htm

I went for Sachse over the DMC because it was easy to order on-line. The unit took seven working days to arrive in the UK from Germany.

The unit listed for the Atlas is no longer available so you are supplied with the same unit as for the 500. As you will see this presents no problems.

I was a bit concerned that fitting the unit might exceed my limited skills - especially when it comes to things electrical. Fitting the unit was however very straightforward. The instructions on the internet are accurate and easy to follow. In fitting the unit you discard the original pickups, backplate, rotor and associated wiring. The new equipment fitted easily and the wiring was a simpler. The new wiring still allows you to use the original connections for the positive side of the coils and the live feed from the ignition switch.

I mounted my unit on the left hand side using supplied velcro stips on the air box. I had considered mounting the unit under the seat on the back mudguard but decided against it in case it got damp with water running down as on the Zane relays.

Timing up the unit was very simple. I found TDC using a screwdriver down the spark plug hole. Once you have TDC then getting the unit to activate at the right point is a simple matter of turning the rotor until an LED goes out and then tightening every up with the supplied hex key - simple.

The only very minor criticism I will make is that the loom has to be bent at an awkward angle to exit the rotor housing. Everything works fine so I guess it is no problem - it could just look a bit more elegant.

Unit fitted the benefits of the system can be summarised as:

1. Easy starting
2. Stronger and lower tickover. It now ticks over at 1500 rpm - down from 1750. The tickover is reliable
and the lower tickover came with no carb adjustment.
3. Improved torque. The engine will now pull in top from 3000 rpm. The improved torque means less gear
changes and stronger pull at 6000 rpm. It will never be a torquey engine but the Sachse improves
matters.
4. Improved revs. The engine now revs past 6500 rpm with ease.
5. 5% improvement in fuel consumption. I thought it would be more but suspect I am riding the bike harder
with the new ignition. I find myself at 120 kph more often and tend to use the better torque out of
corners more aggressively.

So a big thumbs up from me - who knows if I get a degree wheel and strobe light on the unit things might get even better!

Nick :-)




Last edited by Nick on Wed Sep 01, 2010 11:02 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : Missed out the third paragraph - factual update)
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bobdixon




PostSubject: Re: Sachse electronic ignition   Mon Jan 03, 2011 8:46 pm

Hi Nick , a strobe light won't do much good because your Atlas alternator rotor runs in a wet chamber and it's impossible to run a strobe on it. I like the Sachse unit [I have one on my engine] , the only downside is that there is no facility to make timing adjustments with engine running. The best way to install a Sachse is to establish beyond reasonable doubt where TDC is, preferably with a positive stop arrangement in the spark plug. Once you marked up where TDC is on the rotor you can set the Sachse unit accurately. I'm trying to find a way to make a suitable strobe reference coupled with an adjustable backplate for the crank sensors so I can make adjustments whilst the motor is running. I prefer to set engines up be ear and then check the results with a strobe. I've got no time left to do that this season but next year I hope to have it sorted.
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Nick

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PostSubject: Re: Sachse electronic ignition   Tue Jan 04, 2011 10:22 pm

Interesting stuff Bob. I improved on my timing via a dial guage. It's good enough (and I was surprised how inaccurate the screwdriver down the plug turned out to be).

Be sure and share any improvements you come up with.

I experimented with curves 2,3 and 9 as these all had the smallest advance on start up. I ended up sticking on 9 as this gave the engine the most character. I suspect curve 3 is the most efficient as it is progressive with no deviations - however I thought it made the engine sound and perform without character. I might be dreaming this and of course of no use on Bob's heady brew but may be of interest to some.

Nick :-)
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